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2019年06月18日 00:47:21

MEN’S WEAR DESIGNERS of America: Uncle Sam wants you — for New York Men’s Week this summer.美国的男装设计师们:山姆大叔需要你们——为了明年夏天的纽约男装周。Though the calendar is strafed with sequential and ever-lengthening international fashion weeks, American designers are agitating for a men’s week of their own. Though the idea has been percolating for some time, it has gained momentum in recent weeks as sponsors have signed on. Men’s designers received emails from representatives of the Council of Fashion Designers of America in October gauging interest.如今日程表上已挤满各种国际时装周,它们接连不断、时间越来越长,但美国设计师们正在鼓动设立自己的男装周。这个想法已经慢慢散播了一段时间,但是最近几周,随着赞助商们开始签约,它的势头又开始高涨。10月份,男装设计师们收到美国时装设计师协会的代表们发来的电子邮件,意在评估大家的兴趣。To hear its supporters tell it, creating a midsummer presentation of men’s shows is nothing less than a point of national pride.持者们认为,在夏季中段(译注:7月4日为美国国庆日)举办男装展示会无疑能够增强民族自豪感。“Everybody has a connection to it,” said Steven Kolb, the chief executive of the C.F.D.A., who is spearheading the effort, “because of the patriotism of it all, as American designers.”“每个人都与此有关,”引领这一倡议的美国时装设计师协会首席执行官史蒂文·科尔布(Steven Kolb)说。“因为这完全体现了美国设计师们的爱国精神。”The proposed week would fall, patriotically enough though not expressly for that reason, not long after the Fourth of July.提议举办的时间是7月4日之后不久,这足以体现爱国主义,虽然没有明确说明。At New York Fashion Week, held in February and September, the men’s collections tend to languish in the shadow of the women’s. Many established men’s designers have decamped to fashion weeks abroad.在每年2月和9月举办的纽约时装周上,男装似乎被笼罩在女装的阴影下。很多老牌男装设计师都选择在国外的时装周上发布新装。“New York has such strong men’s wear designers at this point, but I think what happens in New York is that your business gets to a certain point and then you feel compelled to show in Europe,” said Daniel Silver, the co-designer of Duckie Brown.“纽约拥有强大的男装设计师群体,但我觉得纽约现在的情况是,生意壮大到一定程度,你就觉得要被迫去欧洲展示,”达基·布朗(Duckie Brown)的联合设计师丹尼尔·西尔弗(Daniel Silver)说。The reason for this is partly logistical. The selling season for spring men’s wear, when buyers see collections and place orders, occurs over the summer, just after the European men’s wear shows in London, Milan and Paris. New York designers and labels including Calvin Klein Collection, John Varvatos, Thom Browne and Phillip Lim have moved their shows to Europe to close the gap between showing and selling.这其中有物流方面的因素。春季男装的销售时间(也就是买家们观看装系列、下订单的时间)是在夏季,既伦敦、米兰和巴黎的男装秀之后。CK高级时装(Calvin Klein Collection)、约翰·瓦维托斯(John Varvatos)、桑姆·布郎尼(Thom Browne)和林能平(Phillip Lim)等纽约设计师和装品牌把时装秀搬到欧洲,以弥补展示和销售之间的时间差。“One of the biggest puzzles in the industry is why we’re showing men’s wear on the runway three months after we’ve bought it,” said Kevin Harter, the vice president of fashion direction for men at Bloomingdale’s.“这个行业最大的一个谜题是,为什么男装在销售三个月后才在秀台上展示,”布卢明代尔百货公司的男装副总裁凯文·哈特(Kevin Harter)说。The burden falls disproportionately on emerging designers, who may not have the resources to sell their collection early.这种压力主要落在新秀设计师身上,他们可能没有足够的资源,无法提早销售自己的系列。“We have a great pool of young talent in America,” said Jim Moore, the creative director of GQ. “That’s something you don’t have in a lot of places. It seems to be the land of opportunity.”“美国有很多有年轻人才,”《GQ》的创意总监吉姆·穆尔(Jim Moore)说,“这是很多地方没有的。这里似乎是机遇之地。”But by September, Mr. Harter said, the New York collections have “almost become an afterthought, because your budgets have aly been spent by then.”但是哈特说,到9月份,纽约的时装发布会“几乎是马后炮,因为到那时你的预算已经花完了。”Between the megabrands that head to Europe and the smaller ones that stay in New York are midcareer designers like Michael Bastian, who holds sales appointments with buyers in June in Milan but stages a runway show in New York in September.除了去欧洲举办发布会的大品牌和留在纽约的小品牌,还有一些中间层设计师,比如迈克尔·巴斯蒂安(Michael Bastian),他6月份就在米兰和买家们签署销售约定,9月份才在纽约举办时装秀。“Theoretically we could be showing in Milan,” he said. “I just never felt comfortable showing anywhere but America. We’re an American brand.”“理论上我们能在米兰举办时装秀,”他说,“但是在美国之外的地方举办时装秀就是让我觉得不舒。因为我们是美国品牌。”Stumbling blocks persist. One is creating a strong enough lineup to draw international press and buyers to New York. The possibility of a New York event is testing the American spirit of the brands born and bred in the ed States that have migrated elsewhere to show, or elected not to show at all.有些障碍一直存在。其中一个是需要强大的阵容,把国际媒体和买家吸引到纽约。能否在纽约举办男装周,关键在于考验这些土生土长的美国品牌是否具有美国精神,之前它们有的去其他地方展示,有的干脆不展示。Large labels, including Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren (which has not produced a men’s wear show in recent years) and Tommy Hilfiger (which has shown intermittently) declined to comment on whether they would join a New York men’s week. A representative for John Varvatos did not respond to requests for comment.CK、拉夫·劳伦(Ralph Lauren,该品牌近些年没有举办男装秀)和汤米·希尔费格(Tommy Hilfiger,它偶尔举办)等大品牌拒绝就是否参加纽约男装周发表。约翰·瓦维托斯的一位代表没有回应要求的请求。Another hurdle is sponsorship dollars, to defray costs of sites and production. Three sponsors have committed thus far, but at least one more is needed to meet a proposed budget of million.另一个障碍是付场地和制作费用所需的赞助。到目前为止,已有三位赞助商,但是至少还需要一位赞助商,才足以付200万美元的预算。Mr. Kolb said that creating a stand-alone men’s showcase would have historic significance.科尔布说,创设单独的男装周将具有历史意义。“When I look at the things that C.F.D.A. has been able to accomplish over the last number of years, we’ve changed the organization in a big way,” he said, citing the acquisition of the 65-year-old Fashion Calendar in July as a highlight. “If we were able to pull off men’s and do it right, it would have that same kind of stature.”“我在回顾过去几年美国时装设计师协会取得的成就时,发现我们已经在很大程度上改变了这个组织,”他说。他认为今年7月该协会收购有65年历史的时尚日历(Fashion Calendar)是最大的亮点。“如果我们能成功创办男装周并良好运营,它将具有同样的高度。”But time is running out. Mr. Kolb said that if enough sponsorship to cover the budget is not confirmed by the beginning of the new year, the July shows, in discussion for over a year, would be scuttled and a men’s event once again postponed.但是时间快不够了。科尔布说,如果明年初筹集不到足够的赞助费,讨论了一年多的7月发布会就将流产,男装周将也将再次延迟。It is perhaps especially frustrating that London has managed to create exactly the sort of event the C.F.D.A. is attempting. In 2012, the British Fashion Council moved its men’s wear from a single day at the end of London Fashion Week to the four-day London Collections: Men and quickly found success, first in press, then in sales.特别令人沮丧的是,伦敦成功创办了美国时装设计师协会想要创办的那种活动。2012年,英国时装协会把伦敦时装周最后一天的男装秀改成为期四天的伦敦男装周(London Collections: Men),很快取得成功——先是在媒体上,而后在销售上。“What a huge deal this would be if he could pull this off,” Mr. Bastian said. “It would really validate all of American fashion, in a way, to figure this out.”“如果他能促成此事,那真是了不起,”巴斯蒂安说,“从某种程度上讲,它真的能明所有美国时装的价值。” /201412/348643加拉巴哥象乌龟能活多少年多少钱一只2019With his departure time looming and a guide fretting to get back to the ship, Liang Nan has been left in a corner of the Canal City shopping mall, in Japan’s southern port of Fukuoka, hunched over a mobile phone.随着离开的时间渐渐逼近,导游开始催促游客回到船上。梁楠(音)一直在福冈运河城购物中心的角落里看着手机。福冈位于日本南部,是一座港口城市。He has three tasks to perform: guard a huge, growing mountain of shopping, check with nagging relatives back home that everything they asked for has been bought, and discover online just how badly his wife’s A shares are doing.梁楠肩负三项任务:守护一座堆得跟座山似的商品——而且越堆越高;跟老家那群唠叨的亲戚一件一件核对他们要带的商品;以及上网看他老婆的A股到底跌了多少。The rest of Mr Liang’s party — wife, toddler, mother and mother-in-law — are still roaring around the Fukuoka branch of Laox in a state of retail fervour. The store, once known throughout Japan as an electronics specialist, has broadened its offerings here to please its newest customers: Chinese, arriving on cruise ships that bring in as many as 4,900 at a time, with estimated average spending of Y90,000 (0) each and with just a few hours to shop before they set sail back to Tianjin or Shanghai.梁楠的妻子、孩子、母亲和岳母还在Laox免税店福冈分店里兴致勃勃地逛着,他们正沉浸在购物狂热中。Laox是全日本知名电器商店,如今福冈分店增加了商品种类,以迎合新的消费者——中国人。他们乘游船而来,一次最多达4900人,人均消费约为9万日元(约合750美元),而且购物仅几个小时后就要乘船返回天津或上海。In 2014, 91 cruise ships travelled from China to Fukuoka. This year the port is expecting nearly three times that number. Costa, Royal Caribbean and others are bolstering their Asian fleets to make all this happen.2014年,中国到福冈的邮轮抵港次数达到91次。今年这个数字预计将增长近两倍。“歌诗达”(Costa),“皇家加勒比”(Royal Caribbean)及其他邮轮公司公司正在扩充亚洲地区船只数量,以满足这一增长。The Chinese coming here used to be the rich, says Miwa Mochizuki, a spokeswoman for the Canal City mall. Now it is the middle class. Coming by sea makes sense for China’s quality-seeking shoppers, she adds, because the only limit on baggage is what you can cram into your cabin. The great benefit of the cruise ships, says Fukuoka’s mayor, Takashima Soichiro, is that they can deliver the lucrative “shopping bomb” exploding in his city.运河城购物中心发言人望月美和(Miwa Mochizuki)表示,过去来这儿购物的中国人通常是有钱人,而今成了中产阶层。她说,对于追求品质的中国购物者而言,坐船更明智些,因为乘船对行李的唯一限制就是看你能往自己的船舱里塞多少东西。福冈市长高岛宗一郎(Takashima Soichiro)表示,这些邮轮的一大好处,就是可以运来大批“购物狂”,为他的城市带来巨额利益。“A third of these are for us, the rest is for family in Hebei,” says Mr Liang, sorting through a collection of bags that contain six rice cookers, four floor-cleaning robots, two air purifiers, an blood-pressure monitor, a stack of metallic vacuum flasks, a dozen electric toothbrushes and two face massagers (for men).梁楠一边整理一大堆购物袋一边说:“这里面有三分之一是我们家的,其他全是给河北亲戚带的。”他们买了6个电饭煲,4个扫地机器人,2个空气净化器,1个血压计,一堆真空金属保温杯,十几把电动牙刷和两个男性脸部器。“I think she [my wife] has gone crazy,” he says. “But I don’t mind. If her shares keep falling, we may not come back to Japan for a while.”梁楠说:“我觉得她(他妻子)已经买疯了。但是我不介意。如果她的股票继续下跌,我们可能有段时间不会来日本了。”Electronics are still the main feature of Laox, say sales staff from China’s Fujian and Zhejiang provinces, but customers leave with endless bags of nappies, nail-clippers, health supplements, diet shakes, tights, thermometers, wrinkle-reducing face packs and silicone rice spoons — goods whose quality are thought guaranteed simply because they are made in Japan.Laox有来自中国福建和浙江的销售人员,据他们介绍该店仍主要销售电器,但顾客们无止境地购买着尿布、指甲刀、保健品、减肥代餐奶昔、丝袜、温度计、除皱霜以及硅胶饭勺。中国消费者认为这些商品的质量是有保的,因为它们是“日本制造”。On the floors below Laox, Chinese visitors blast through local clothes retailers and luxury goods outlets where loudspeakers bellow last-minute offers in Mandarin before the coaches leave for the ship. In the pharmacy Matsumoto Kiyoshi, where competing Japanese brands of rose-scented eyedrops are in hot demand, a Shanghai woman being tugged at the sleeve by her guide demands shop staff tell her which of three brands of Japanese condoms works best.在Laox下面几层,中国游客大潮席卷着装店、奢侈品店。扬声器里传来普通话的大声呼喊,通知游客们发往游船的旅游大巴马上出发。在松本清(Matsumoto Kiyoshi)药房,各个日本品牌的玫瑰味眼药水大受欢迎。一名导游拽着一个上海女人的衣袖,后者让店员告诉她三种日本避套品牌中哪一种最好用。The impact of all this on Fukuoka — a city whose 1.5m population will this year be passed by the total number of foreign visitors — has been transformational. Japan’s wider inbound tourism boom has provided Shinzo Abe’s economic growth story with a timely boost: Nomura just raised its forecasts for total visitor numbers to 17.44m for 2015.这一切给福冈带来了巨大的影响。这座城市有150万居民,今年外国游客总人数将会超过居民人数。日本整体的入境旅游热潮为安倍晋三(Shinzo Abe)的经济增长故事及时注入了一剂强心针,野村券(Nomura)刚刚将2015年赴日游总人数预测上调到1744万人。But in Fukuoka, whose tax revenues and population are the fastest-rising in Japan as a result of the tourists, the effect is more noticeable. The city authorities are rushing to find empty spots for coach parking before the city’s roads grind to a halt. The port last week opened a new cruise terminal that quadruples immigration processing capacity.但是福冈受到的影响比一些城市明显,由于游客大量增加,这里的税收收入和人口是全日本增长最快的。福冈市政府正忙着为旅游大巴找到新的停车位,以免城市交通陷入停顿。上周福冈港口开放了一个新的邮轮码头,将入境处理能力提高了3倍。Mr Takashima travelled last week to Tokyo to ask the government for a budget to extend the jetty by 100 metres to accommodate the largest cruise ships in the world. Fukuoka, he says, is the first city in Japan to undergo a change where Japanese feel like a minority.高岛宗一郎上周前往东京要求政府拨预算将该码头延长100米,以容纳全世界最大的邮轮。他表示,在日本人民感到自己像少数民族的领域,福冈是日本第一座经历改变的城市。The Chinese cruise passengers in Canal City appear unbothered by unfolding events in the mainland markets — a holding of nerve that bullish analysts say will be true across China’s consumer economy. There is little evidence, says Julian Evans-Pritchard, China Economist at Capital Economics, that stock prices make a meaningful difference to consumption in China.运河城商场里的中国游客似乎并没受到近期中国内地市场波动的影响。乐观的分析师表示,这种冷静的态度可能真实地反映了中国整体消费经济领域的状况。凯投宏观(Capital Economics)的中国经济学家朱利安埃文斯-普里查德(Julian Evans-Pritchard)表示,没有据表明,股价对中国的消费状况有切实的影响。“Given that the stock market didn’t provide any noticeable boost to spending on the way up, there is no reason to expect it to be a drag on the way down,” he wrote in a note to clients yesterday.他近日在一份给客户的报告中写到:“鉴于A股市场之前没有为消费提供任何明显的提振,因此没有理由认为现在股市会拖累消费下降。”But when Ms Liang finally emerges from Laox, the first question she asks her husband is about stocks. This was Monday — a session of relative calm amid the storm — and the problems seemed far away from Canal City. She asks for another two minutes, and heads back into the shop to buy a final box of deluxe Japanese stomach medicine.但是当梁太太终于从Laox里出来时,她向丈夫提出的第一个问题就是关于股票的。本周从周一走势来看,A股进入了风暴中相对较平静阶段,而且股市的问题看来离运河城很遥远。梁太太要求再给她两分钟,然后扭头返回商店去买最后一箱高档日本胃药。 /201507/386038麝香龟能活多少年多少钱一只2019Rod Drury, an entrepreneur in Auckland, New Zealand, regularly visits the ed States. Sometimes there are multiple visits a day.新西兰奥克兰的创业者罗德·德鲁里(Rod Drury)经常去美国。有时候一天要去若干次。“People here can’t get Netflix, so they get a VPN that gives them a U.S. I.P. address, and watch Netflix like they’re in America,” he said. “If I want something off iTunes, I buy U.S. cards online.”“这里的人看不到Netflix,所以要通过VPN得到一个美国的IP地址,伪装成在美国的样子来看Netflix,”他说。“要是想上iTunes买点什么,我会去网上买美国卡。”Decoding the jargon: Millions of people around the world now pay for virtual private computer networks — a security method that uses encryption to hide Internet traffic — and similar services to hook into a server in the ed States. As far as the and retail services can tell, Mr. Drury is one more American customer.解释一下这堆术语:全世界有成千上万的人在花钱购买虚拟专用电脑网络——一种通过加密来隐藏网络数据往来的安全方法——以及类似的务,为的是连入美国的务器。从视频和零售务商的角度看,德鲁里无非是又一个美国顾客。If the Internet breaks down national boundaries, it may happen from the comfort of our couches. VPNs were originally thought of as a way for companies to guarantee security or dissidents to avoid the prying eyes of their governments. Now they are part of a larger movement for people to work and play anywhere on the planet, at all times.如果说互联网推倒了国界,那么这一切可能是我们舒舒靠在沙发上时发生的。VPN原本是企业用来确保安全的一种手段,或者被异见人士用来躲避政府的监控。如今它已经属于一场涉及面更广的运动,被全世界的人在工作、玩乐中随时用到。And if the software can’t come to consumers, the customers use VPN to get to the software.如果软件不能为消费者所用,顾客就通过VPN主动去使用该软件。“Unblock geo-restricted websites and web services like Netflix, Hulu, B iPlayer, Skype, and many more!” says the webpage of PureVPN, which charges a year to turn you into a virtual American. You might prefer being Canadian, since Netflix Canada has a bigger selection of films.“解除Netflix、Hulu、B iPlayer、Skype等等等等网站和网络务的区域封锁!”PureVPN的网页上写着。该务收取每年45美元(约合280元人民币)的费用,把你变成一个虚拟美国人。也许你应该选择当加拿大人,因为Netflix加拿大站点的电影选择更多。Unblock-us, a service Mr. Drury uses that is similar to a VPN, charges annually. It offers easy access to scores of movie, television and sports s that collectively would probably be impossible to obtain in most countries.德鲁里使用的Unblock-us是一种类似VPN的务,年费50美元。通过它可以方便地获取大量电影、电视和体育视频。在绝大多数国家,同时获取这么多内容都是不太可能的。Uzair Gadit, the co-founder and director of PureVPN, says his company provides services to people in 90 countries who want to go virtually overseas unhindered.PureVPN的联合创始人、董事乌扎尔·加迪特(Uzair Gadit)说,公司的客户遍布全世界90个国家,这些人都希望能自如地虚拟出国。Online gamers use PureVPN to avoid service slowdowns with local Internet providers, as well as cyberattacks by rival gamers. Online retailers in many countries, Mr. Gadit says, need a stealthy way to collect prices from Amazon, eBay and others, to make sure they are competitive. Globally, he figures, perhaps 20 million consumers use VPNs and similar services to reach more than 300 channels that are geographically blocked in some way.网络游戏玩家使用PureVPN来避免被本地互联网供应商的低网速拖累,或是遭到对手的网络攻击。加迪特说,许多国家的网络零售商需要通过隐蔽的方式来搜集亚马逊(Amazon)和eBay等网站的价格,以确保它们能给出有竞争力的价格。他估计全球有大约2000万消费者在使用VPN或类似务,以便获取300余种受区域限制的频道。“You might be amazed how much people want to watch stuff,” Mr. Gadit said. “We had 100 percent growth for each of the last three years, and we’re expecting that again this year. We hear Apple is creating a Netflix-like service — that’s great news for us.”“你肯定猜不到人们有多想看这些东西,”加迪特说。“过去三年我们每年都有100%的增长,今年预计还是有这么大的幅度。我们听说苹果(Apple)在制作一种类似Netflix的务——对我们是重大利好消息。”PureVPN is in Hong Kong, an odd place for a company that also keeps people invisible to state spies. “China only spies on its own people,” Mr. Gadit said. “Most of the world worries about the U.S., the U.K., Australia and New Zealand — they spy on everybody.”PureVPN位于香港,对于一个同时还在帮助人们躲开政府监控的公司来说,这个选址是很奇怪的。“中国只监视自己的国民,”加迪特说。“大多数人担心的是美国、英国,澳大利亚和新西兰——它们什么人都监视。”Netflix’s terms of service forbid customers from circumventing regional barriers to its content, though the company is aware this is not universally respected. “There’s not a lot we can do to track that since VPNs by their very nature are set up to be difficult to spot,” Cliff Edwards, a Netflix spokesman, said in an email. Netflix also plans to offer service in New Zealand next month.Netflix的务条款禁止用户规避其内容的区域壁垒,不过公司知道并非所有人都把这条规矩当回事。“我们也没什么办法来搞追踪,VPN本身的特性决定了它很难被发现,”Netflix发言人克里夫·爱德华兹(Cliff Edwards)在电子邮件中说。Netflix还计划下月在新西兰开展务。What drives this enthusiasm for VPNs, it could be argued, is the way media companies are not providing entertainment fast enough in a world where everyone can be hip to the newest movie and television show. New Zealand movie theaters are now showing “Dumb and Dumber To,” which was on screens in the ed States in November.可以说,在这样一个大家都追逐最新影视节目的世界里,媒体公司提供内容的速度却不够快,对VPN热潮起到了推动作用。新西兰的电影院现在放映的《阿呆与阿瓜2》(Dumb and Dumber To),在美国是去年11月上映的。“There is a mismatch between the perception that you get what you want over the Internet and distribution doesn’t matter anymore, and a copyright holder selling things by territory,” said Tim Wu, a professor of media and copyright at Columbia Law School.“一方面你觉得从互联网可以得到想要的一切,发行已经无关紧要,另一方面,版权持有人又在分区出售内容,两者是对不上的,”哥伦比亚大学法学院(Columbia Law School)媒体与版权教授吴修铭(Tim Wu)说。“The industry is depending on 95 percent of the population thinking the technology is too complex for them to use,” he said. “If there is a simple device that does this for consumers, entertainment’s easy assumption of territoriality will change.”“这个产业指望的是95%的人认为技术太复杂,不适合他们用,”他说。“如果有一种简单的设备能帮消费者完成这些事,分区这种想当然的设定就要动摇了。”While it is diverting to consider what these copyright-beating services mean to entertainment, the end of borders and regions because of global networks has significant implications for the workplace.想到这些摧垮版权的务将给带来怎样的改变,固然值得欣喜,但全球网络对国界和地区的终结,在商务层面有着更加深远的影响。Mr. Drury is founder and chief executive of Xero, which makes cloud-based accounting software. He has customers in 150 countries, 2014 revenue of 0 million and 1,100 employees sp over four nations. A substantial amount of Xero’s revenue comes from accountants who make a living by doing the books of companies in countries on the other side of the world.德鲁里是云端财会软件开发商Xero的创始人兼首席执行官。他的客户遍布150个国家,2014年的营收达1亿美元,在四个国家拥有1100名员工。Xero的收入中,有相当一部分来自那些给地球另一端的公司做账的会计员。Xero built a basic accounting software model, then adapted it to a country’s local accounting quirks. It relies on back-end computing that does not need to be near the work.Xero创建了一种基本的财会软件模型,然后根据每个国家的财会偏好做出相应调整。这种务依赖后端计算,并不需要在用户身边。Elsewhere, individuals who toiled online via freelance sites like Elance and ODesk did million worth of work outside their country of residence in January. That was an increase of more than 50 percent in two years. On the Indonesian island of Bali, a tropical paradise popular with foreigners, 100,000 online freelancers are registered with Elance and ODesk, which operate jointly.在别的领域,许多个人通过Elance和ODesk等自由职业者的网站勤奋工作,仅在1月份就在他们所在国家以外的地方挣出了6700万美元。这是在两年内实现了超过50%的增长。在印度尼西亚的巴厘岛,一个受外国游客青睐的热带天堂,10万网络自由职业者在Elance和ODesk上注册。这两家网站是联合运营的。“Tech is globalizing everything, so anyone building just a regional strategy isn’t thinking big enough,” Mr. Drury said.“科技将一切都全球化了,如果有谁还在制定一种地区性的策略,那就是目光短浅,”德鲁里说。 /201502/359845靴脚陆龟多少钱一只


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